Location

Background

Kota Bharu (KB) is the administrative capital of Malaysia's northern Kelantan province. Kelantan is by far the most unique state in Peninsular Malaysia. For most of the 1990s, it has been ruled by the opposition party which has imposed a number of laws more conducive to an Islamic lifestyle. Because of this, many outsiders see Kelantan as a backward place, not worth visiting. Many news reports have talked about the state imposing Islamic law (S'yariah) on the inhabitants.

The truth is actually pretty far from that. Women generally have their own careers, particularly in the cities, and are allowed to drive, do not have to cover their faces with the tudung (headdress) nor are they necessarily repressed. For non-Muslims, alcohol is still available although you have to look a bit farther. There are movie theatres and while some cultural traditions such as shadow-puppets have been discouraged as being un-Islamic, you can still see them at cultural shows .

In reality, much of what is most interesting about KB is that which lies outside the city. Those who confine themselves to the town will undoubtedly miss a tremendous amount of what the area has to offer. Those who venture outside the city will be pleasantly rewarded. The city and its surrounding area is perhaps the most fascinating part of Peninsular Malaysia encompassing picturesque beaches, padi fields, rubber estates, palm oil plantations, fishing villages and a rich cultural tradition. KB itself is a very pleasant city with an active market selling all manner of fruits and foodstuffs from the area and from nearby Thailand. While it may not have the most active nightlife, the people are extremely pleasant, the prices are the cheapest in Malaysia and it is a veritable shopping paradise for textiles, bamboo items, food and other art pieces. Even the food is uniquely Malay, being sweeter than that of most of the rest of the Peninsula.

Kelantan province, straddling the Thai border is the most Malay of all provinces with Malays accounting for about 90% of all of the population. On the surface, much has been adapted to Islamic life. Weekends in Kelantan are Thursday and Friday. During nighttime prayers, the night markets are closed until the end of prayers. Most of the state's inhabitants still live in the villages working in agriculture, fishing or estate work. However, it is surprising that despite the state's rural orientation, many of Malaysia's most successful businesspeople are Kelantanese. Education is a major focus for people here and most families are involved in trading in some way or another. Much of this has to do with the proximity to Thailand about 60 km north of KB. If you go to the border, you will see people carrying or driving large bags of fruits and vegetables back from Thailand for sale in the state's major towns .

Food

Kelantan boasts unique cuisine with specialities like ayam percik, nasi kerabu or nasi dagang enjoying pride of place. Be adventurous and try the local fare. Restaurants and food stalls abound and hawkers selling snacks can be found almost anywhere.

What To Buy

Batik & Clothes - The 3rd floor of the main market is the best place in Malaysia to buy ready made clothes, batik cloth, scarves or other textile accessories. Prices are excellent although you will have to bargain like crazy. Just see it as a game. If you want to get clothes made, you can buy the silk or cloth in raw form and bring it across the street to Astaka Fashions (Buluh Kubu Bazaar) to tailor it in a day. If you provide the cloth, the cost is about RM30 to tailor a shirt and RM38 for pants. For women's clothes, there are lots of dressmakers on the 2nd floor and to tailor a dress will cost RM20-30. Good silk should not cost more than about RM20 per metre. Also, if you walk on the road to Pantai Cahaya Bulan (PCB), batik is made in many of the villages in studios under their houses. Usually, these are sold to the big retailers catering to tourists but if you ask, maybe you can get some for a cheaper price.

Bamboo Items - Fans, mats and food covers make excellent gifts. The food covers look like rice farmer hats but don't be fooled. Food covers may cost about RM3-4 each and you can also get spectacular wall fans with scenes of villages for RM8-9, about half the price as in KL with excellent quality. Also, on the 2nd floor of Buluh Kubu Bazaar, there are a number of shops that sell

Foodstuffs - Durian cake, dodol (coconut and palm sugar chewy candy) spices and keropok ikan are sold in take home gift size package or the industrial sizes as well. Many are locally made and you can ask to try them before you buy. Look on the 2nd floor of the main market for these.

Tops and Silver - Available at the handicraft center. Prices are not out of this world but they are ok

Kites - Malaysian wau (kites) are unique. There are a few major designs those including moon (bulan), bird (burung), cat (kucing) and fish (jalabudi). You can tell what kind they are by the design at the base. Malaysian Airline Systems logo is actually in the shape of a moon kite. These kites come in various sizes and are made of either cloth or paper. There's a good kite maker on the road to Pantai Cahaya Bulan (PCB) just outside of Penambang (about 3 km from KB).

Songket - A type of cotton cloth laced with gold cloth to form geometrical designs. This is also quite frequently found in Thailand but in Malaysia, part of the ceremonial costume for prayer in particular (Baju Melayu) involves the wearing of this cloth around the outside at the waist. It's not cheap though and prices at the KB market may be RM80-100 for even the most mediocre of pieces, which is about half the price anywhere else in the country for the same quality.